Bergen, the centre of Scandanavian history

Bergen is just two nights with a sightseeing day and then an earlyish departure the next day to Balestrand. Our hotel, Clarion Collection Havnekontoret was outstanding: perfectly sited right in the centre of Bryggen, the historic wharf and warehouse area of Bergen. And it was elegantly comfortable, and generous, providing fika each afternoon and even a light evening meal, a great option as it seems to rain late in the day here. The hotel occupies a building dating from the 1920's.

In Bryggen the tourist bustle was very noticeable, heaps of shops with masses of souvenirs. Nice to see lots of wool and woollen garments, but the fridge magnets, cheap Viking stuff and little models of trolls, houses, mirroring the archetyical photo you see below, was just overwhelming. This historic area has been razed by fire many times, and despite some pressure to demolish remaining buildings after the latest fire in 1955, public opinion moved and restoration continues apace, deaing with rotten piles as well, but following traditional patterns and methods to retain the ancient wooden urban structure. 

To explore Bergen we did a self-guided walk around the city centre, using our InnTravel notes. The first stop was the fish market and adjoining fish stalls with produce for sale.

                                   

The walk then took us through back streets and byways, past museums, theatres and art galleries.  

A statue of Ole Bull, the first violinist to achieve international fame, and the cathedral, still with a cannon ball embedded in its walls, a reminder of the 1665 sea battle between the English and Dutch fleets 

and St Mary's Church, built between 1130 and 1170, the oldest church in Bergen and th church of the Hanseatics, hence called the German church.

It also took us conveniently past the city funicular which we boarded for a trip up the hill for a city and surroundings view. a great way to spot all those cruise ships!

We also visited the Bryggen Museum adjacent to our hotel which has two levels and two focusses.

The lower floor takes a very detailed look at the archaeology of the city going back to Viking times. The ancient relics were found when the museum was being built and many of the displays are just what was exposed during the building process. They have been left in place and tell the story of the types of construction used, display how the city developed and encroached progressively into the harbour. Fascinating accumulation of material from the Middle East, Africa, Russia and parts further afield. This town was built on the fish trade, German merchants monopolised this, the Hanseatic traders, and they were very big influencers in the city's development from the 1500’s. 

The top level of the museum was dedicated to the development of Norwegian Law, and details it all came together, initiated by King Frederick in the late 900’s but codified by King Magnus VI Hakonsson (now known as Magnus the Lawmender) in the 13th century. The country's law book was put together from the rules and conventions that governed the many communities in Norway. The displays contain an immense amount of detail on laws and customary practice.

There are still some elements of old customs and we watched young Norwegian boys, who form a sort of home guard (Buekorps), and march through the city to the beat of a drum. This remains a Bergen custom, but used to occur throughout Norway.

Bergen has the rep as the rainiest city in Europe, we had a bit of that in our short time here, but it’s a lovely place to visit when there’s not too many cruise ships in the harbour.