The Flight North

We arrived in Stockholm at about 9.30 pm Saturday night (NZ time) after leaving home in Auckland Friday morning at 5 00 am. The flight left Auckland at 8.10am and we had a 6 hour wait in Sydney, but the Qantas lounge is a fine place to wait.

 Our flight to Dubai was QF1, our first Airbus 380 experience, lovely flying, a few joggly bits, but a good flight through the night and a few naps do help. We then had a 6 hour stop in the elegant Emirates lounge at Dubai, a very nice experience thanks. The Dubai to Stockholm leg was a 777-300 and a particularly smooth flight, up across Iran, along the western coastline of the Caspian, then turn left past Baku to fly about half way between Kiev and Moscow, pretty much all over Russia, but haven’t had time to check that.

It was midday local time, Saturday when we arrived at Arlanda, and then into the hotel (Freys Lilla Radmannen http://www.freyshotels.com/lillaradmannen ) just after 2 pm. In pretty good shape really, not feeling spaced out or tired. We’d kept one watch on NZ time and ran NZ routines throughout the journey for breakfast, lunch and dinner (including pre dinner drinks) and whatever sleep time we could grab. It worked pretty well.

 

Stockholm

Stockholm’s latitude is approx. 59 degrees North, in Southern Hemisphere terms that’s about 800 nautical miles south of Invercargill, so it’s not wine country!

We walked first to the Ostermalms Saluman market, quite small, but full of very well presented local and imported fare. This was just a reconnoitre for a later buying visit and to ensure that we could locate the place.

 

Next it was down to the waterfront lined with strikingly uniform apartment blocks, interspersed with important buildings like the National Theatre. We were heading towards Gamla Stan, the island and old town where Stockholm was first established.

 

 

We had a lovely stroll along the busy waterfront, lots of sightseeing boats operating, lots of family gatherings and smartly dressed people out promenading or celebrating. However as we approached the bridge to walk across to our destination there was a line of Polis and barriers. You can’t cross to the Island today, there are protestors holding a demonstration. So OK we’ll go around this, backtracked a bit and walked along another street, past lots more Polis in vans sitting and waiting. Next attempt to get to the bridge was again blocked by barriers but you could see the protestors and lines of riot Polis, took a photo and retreated. Tried again and this time we went into Kungsgarten, a big public square. As we strolled into the square, groups of young, heavily studded, masked and gesticulating people came running past pursued by groups of baton-wielding riot Polis, supported by horse mounted Polis, and other Polis with dogs.

All this in a country which prides itself on its tolerant and liberal population. Sweden is two weeks away from an election, and the riot was explained to us in this way by a local on our boat trip the following day. About 100 right wingers (neo Nazi was the description) were demonstrating outside the parliament. As a response a group of about 2000 left wingers gathered to counter-protest, and the Polis were struggling to control this group who were shouting, screaming abuse and hurling thunder flashes. So plenty of noise and smoke which created a bit of mayhem. Perhaps Sweden is becoming a less tolerant society!

So we abandoned the walk, and after establishing our boat tour’s departure point for the next day, and the dining place for Monday night we ambled home, determined to swing into a “normal” routine. So we dined around 7 00 pm, hit the wall about 8 00 and crashed. Sunday morning we woke bright eyed and bushy tailed, and in absolutely fine shape. Very pleased with the outcome of our travel option.

Sunday we boarded MV Victoria, which took us for a cruise down Lake Malaren, to Birka (Beer kar)on the island of Bjorke, which was a Viking trading settlement from 750 to about 1250.

 

 

Viking is a verb, it’s what they did. An economist would say they were exploiting their Comparative Advantage. They were warriors, could build light, fast boats and they liked to travel. So they inflicted themselves on others, from Southern Sweden they went a-Viking mainly to Finland, Estonia and as far east as Constantinople. The Sultan had a guard of Swedish Vikings. Sorry, no Vikings from Sundsvall, they were all farmers up that way! Plus we were informed that the real Vikings didn’t have horned helmets, so the image is destroyed!

The Holy Roman Emperor sent a Benedictine monk to Birka to convert the pagan Vikings to Christianity, unfortunately it was pretty barren soil for him, but he did in the end become St Ansgar for his efforts. The town never converted and was replaced by Sigtuna as a trading centre, as Christianity started to dominate Europe.

We did a guided tour, around burial mounds and fortifications and a well-presented museum.

 

 

The archaeological research here is funded by the family who own Tetra Pak, and they have done some innovative stuff using magnetic imagery, and aerial imaging to do “non-intrusive“ interpretation, that work has been completed recently and the write-up should be available next year. It will be an interesting read and maybe something for Te Motu a Ihenga.

So why did they stop viking? They became Christians and it was then called crusading for one, their CA was past its use-by date, and the European kingdoms were becoming more powerful for two, and the model they had developed no longer worked for three.

So the good thing from all this is I don’t have to apologise for my Viking ancestors’ actions, I don’t have any, Carl Erik came from further north.

Back to the city and we belatedly managed to achieve our visit to the ancient part of Stockholm, Gamla Stan, checking out the Nobelmuseet, where they award the prizes, and the Royal Palace complete with stern guard who growled at me for leaning on one of his cannons!

 

 We then strolled home back through a Kungsgarten full of music and young people at a pop concert. So back Sweden is back to the tolerant and liberal society.

 

Last day today, back to Saluhall for some local cheese and bread for a picnic lunch and off to the ABBA museum. The verdict? A fantastic presentation of heaps of their memorabilia, lots of insight into the life and times. Stefan and Anna joined the group in a memorable rendition of Mamma Mia on stage and recorded for posterity, Stefan did a solo as well, also recorded for posterity. I think we access them on the Abba museum website and we'll sell tickets for the performance on our return home.

 

Then it was onto the Vasa museum for the first Swedish built “two gundeck” ship, the Vasa. It was built by a Dutch ship builder, with input from an impatient King Gustavus II Adolphus who was at war with Poland. It was built from Polish oak and armed with Polish cannons. The stern, was ornately carved to show the power of the king. On August 10 1628 on its maiden outing it managed to sail about 1200 metres before turning turtle after a breeze caused it to heel and water flooded in through the open cannon porthole. The second of the ships, Applet (now a meter wider and carrying a heap more ballast), was launched a year later and sailed successfully for 30 years. The Vasa sat upright on the seafloor in 32m of brackish Baltic water for 333 odd years before being recovered in 1961 and restored. This was a fascinating museet, featuring all aspects of the salvage, the people who built and crewed the vessel, and all aspects of the times. It was again well worth a visit.

                                                        

                                  

We stopped on the way home for a café latte, the 70 Swedish crowns for two is about $NZ13, so things cost a tad more in this part of the world.

As a farewell to Stockholm, we chose the Operabaren Restaurant which serves traditional Swedish food. Not a Michelin restaurant like its big brother, Operakallen, but still iconic. We opted for Crayfish Toast to start. The very attentive waiter provided the recipe, crayfish, mayonnaise, dill and schnapps served with fried crunchy toast and a rocket salad. Superb! He was very impressed with a photo I showed him of Wellington crayfishing, and astounded at their size. The Swedish variety is tiny and pricey. For mains Ann chose their world famous Swedish meatballs with potato purée served with lingonberry preserve and pickled gherkin. Lingonberries are found in the forest on bushes like blueberries and tossed in some sugar. I had the equally traditional plaice served on bed of spinach and boiled potatoes with crayfish sauce. Lovely food and the staff were very happy to chat about any element of it. We were entertained by Stockholmites in tuxedos and strappy dresses assembling for a charity UNICEF dinner at Operakallen. Operabaren opened in 1905. Its interior is a mixture of Art Nouveau and an aristocratic gentlemen's club. The leather upholstered chairs and couches and the stunning stained glass ceiling lighting combined with rich wooden walls is atmospheric.

 

Spoke to Dag today and set up to meet before Wednesday’s visit to the farm where Carl Erik’s village still is. This is most unexpected and will be a real treat, Dad found it very difficult to extract information from this part of the world. The circumstances that have opened it all up to us are just amazing. Will document at a later stage