Granada: what a fascinating tale you do tell.

The bus trip down from Cordoba seemed like it would be a dreary - nearly three hours. Wrong again, an interesting trip through rolling hills, much of it ploughed up for winter crops, but the majority of the areas planted in olives as far as the eye could see. Some asparagus planting as we got closer to Granada, and a few pomegranates (Granada in Spanish - see opposite and peaches. Passed the occasional bastida, sometimes incongruously beside a modern olive oil processing plant and town, and caught some striking glimpses of the Sierras.

 Before leaving Cordoba, we had our final breakfast of squeezed-as-you-wait zumo de naranja (OJ), café con leche, tostada and tomate at the cafe near Don Paula for the princely sum of 3.50 Euro each.

Bus trip again very smooth, although not quite as classy a bus as we’d had from Oporto to the Duoro. Taxi driver took us to the specified accommodation spot OK, but we then had to find the pedestrian-only access to the apartment. Got it second shot and Ann stood guard on the bags. Apartment is good, reasonably spacious and cooking facilities fine, a nice central courtyard, but not a lot of natural light or view.

Our usual practice is “drop bags, go for walk to get bearings and set up the next few days”. So we walked down the hill to the city centre and decided that bussing up was probably a smart idea. Also decided that driving a rental car up here, even with the help of TomTom would be a dumb thing to do on Wednesday when we leave. So we’ll bus down to Avis at the local tren estation.

We are staying in the old town, in what was the Arab quarter, so streets are just wide enough for a car, and “buses” are ten sit down and ten stand-up overgrown Toyota Hiaces. Some of the cars reflect their environment!

 

There are great views of the Alhambra and old city walls from our neighbourhood.

It was around 2 30 Saturday as we strolled down the valley looking up to the Alhambra, and we decided it was possibly time to eat, breakfast had been about 9.15. We were passing a tapa bar called Minotauro, with quite a few people in it, so walked in and asked for Dos Vino blanco and we’d like a tapa menu. “Tapa is free with the drinks” (inside only not outside). The dish of olives arrived then two bacon and lettuce rolls, with a side salad and a handful of potato chips. Very tasty. As Ann was dragging the chain a bit on the vino blanco, I decided to try the local Alhambra ale, and another tapa arrived, this time a kebab of chorizo on bread plus more olives. When it came time for la cuenta por favor, we had had the brief discussion “we’ll probably be stung on the price of drinks, but that’s life”.  Our taxi driver had recommended the Alhambra ale as we drove past the brewery. I had mentioned San Miguel as a beer but that got a very dismissive “Malaga beer” response, so when in Rome. Yes, yes la cuenta…. 6.90 Euro!!! You walk out feeling like you’ve stolen something, and the barmen work like Trojans - they are always moving and quickly.

We picked up our Granada cards which get us into all the sights, and found the supermercado for our shopping for apartment living. You’d wonder why bother with the supermercado, when eating out is so cheap, but it is good to do some home cooking, and just have some space to chill out.

We were buying postcards this morning while we waited for the bus to our first monastery of the day, and I happened to notice the cigar case on the counter. Big Havana cigars, corona size I think, were 1.5 Euros. Carmen’s work is worth much more than that, how will the poor girl make a living?

Cartuja and St Jerome

The weather is cool and showery today so we were keen on inside things. We sat in the back of the bus, and were expecting a “long trip” from the tourist office advice. In fact it would have been no more than 15 minutes’ walk (which we could have completed while we waited for the bus), and it was probably just the third stop. The rough looking guy in the seat in front had turned and said something to us in Spanish, which went way over our heads. but as the bus was about to move off again we did recognise his “cartoohar, cartoohar, cartoohar” call and quickly got off. Thank-you rough man.

Monasterie de Cartuja was a Carthusian order monastery founded by Bruno de Hartenfaust now St Bruno. This was a contemplative order (lots of thinking very little speaking), many of  the order were killed by King Henry VIII and Cromwell in events which have been captured for prosperity by Sanchez Cotan whose paintings adorn the walls. He captures images of axes in heads, spears through chest, swords through chest, daggers through chest, bullet holes through chest, hung, drawn and quartered action shots, all in the refectory to be enjoyed and celebrated while having dinner.

However, on to the church, sanctuary and sacristy. You have not seen ornate until you’ve seen this. All done in marble of fantastic colours and variety. There were no pictures allowed, but we did buy a guide book which captures some small appreciation of the effects. The sacristy and sanctuary were incredible. It is a shame though to stand there looking up at this just amazingly ornate craftsmanship and seeing substantial cracks in the roof. It has lasted for around 500 years to date, and still appears to be water tight so maybe it will get a few hundred more.

When we exited we decided not to wait for the bus (which went past when we were about 50m down the road past the bus stop….don’t you hate it when that happens?). So we navigated our way on foot assisted by a coffee stop to the Monastery of St Jerome, slightly grander and established by the Reyes Catolicos (Ferdinand and Isabella) in 1496 so now we know what the Reyes Catolicos are after walking down many streets named in their honour.

  The monks of St Jerome served the community for 300 years, and the monastery is currently occupied by the community nuns of St Jerome who also have a contemplative way of life which means they don’t talk much and stay in praying for those of us outside doing other things.                                

   Again, while their daily life was simple there are some very grand aspects to this monastery, like a four storey high piece behind the altar with lots of saints and depictions of religious events and glorifying “the Grand Capitan”.

 I need to check out whether that is Ferdinand III (the vanquisher of the Moors). You do wonder about all the grandeur, but if it’s there to support the endeavours of those who need to take meaning and inspiration from all this then it is understandable; it is certainly inspiring. The other thing is that when it was all being made, very few could read or write so the ability of paintings, frescos etc to tell engaging stories was important. 

Dinner is close to home tonight, but the walk there is uphill so appetite should get a bit stimulated.

Next day. Misjudged the European lifestyle again, and the selected venue was closed on Sunday night so walked back down the hill and made the pragmatic decision to eat at the Moroccan restaurant next door to our apartment. We are in the Arab quarter after all. So after hummus with Moroccan bread and a couple of tagines we wandered around the corner home. The sparkling water made a pleasant change.

Today we were up and about early. A phone call for me at around 4.00 am may have contributed. We set off for the Alhambra at around 8.00 am and were inside the walls at 8.30. That’s down the hill and up the other side.

This is a seriously big complex based around the original Moorish “red fort” designed to protect the adjacent Medina of about 2000 people. The complex was expanded over many centuries by various sultans, and had a bit of a spurt when the locals decided they no longer wanted control from Damascus and set up their own local controlling family. History is pretty repetitive really, power, influence control and armed force. I’m starting to understand some of the Shia/Sunni things that are still around today - these factions were founded many long years ago.

The Alhambra is huge and has some fabulous Moorish and Christian era buildings. Much of it has been reconstructed after being destroyed by such notable heroes as Napoleon who used it as a barracks for his troops, but the conquering Christians and their descendants also left their mark. The Moors did things fantastically well, the decoration and detail was just amazing. They had a thing for stalagmite ceilings and the mosaics and carved walls were stunning.

 

At that stage the Moors had it all over Christendom technically, but the combination of Aragon (Isabella) and Castilian (Ferdinand III) was just too much for poor Boabdil in 1492 and Granada fell after a six month siege. We stood in the room where Christopher Columbus persuaded Isabella to finance his trip to China, and on the Vela tower where the flags and a cross were raised after the Moors surrendered in 1492. I’ve bought a history of Spain book so may get into that on the long flight home.

It was a relaxed morning and we toured the Red Fort and its ramparts giving fantastic views over Granada, and tried to find our place. 

Then we visited the palace of the Sultans (strict rules for entry to this – buy a ticket weeks in advance and the half hour of entry is specified) several other palaces, a monastery, Charles V’s palace (very stark in comparison) and the gardens.

Four hours later we popped out the exit gate, walked down the hill and had lunch again at the Minotauro bar. Robbed them again and then headed off for some shopping.

Back home then and a walk through the back streets of Sacromonte, and up the hill behind our apartment to look back across to the Alhambra in the fading afternoon sun.

Some pretty dubious characters live up there, basically in holes in the ground, not a lot of Spanish is spoken and many look like they’ve come from across the Mediterranean. The snow on the Sierra Nevada was also pretty prominent and explains why it has been pretty cold all day, around 9 degrees I think with a bit of a northerly breeze.

Tomorrow Rick Steve has a walk planned for us, and tomorrow night we dine out late at a restaurant that has an absolutely unimpeded view across the valley to the Alhambra, which is all lit up at night. I’m planning for a step up from the 80-95 Euro “big nights out” achieved so far.

The city walk, focussing on the change from Moorish times (caravanserai) to the new Christian regime was interesting and informative. The painting opposite shows the moment when Moorish leader hands the keys of the city to Ferdinand after their 6 month siege. The Real Capilla with the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabela was like closure to this historical exploration. (They say that in the sculptured images that adorn their joint tomb Isabela’s head sinks deeper into the pillow as her brain was bigger!)  No photos allowed in the Cathedral or Real Capilla.